Kenneth Kamler, M.D practices surgery of the hand in New York, and extreme medicine in some of the most remote regions on Earth. He has treated bear bite in the Arctic and frostbite in the Antarctic. Of his six expeditions to Mount Everest as expedition doctor, four were with the National Geographic Society. On two more recent expeditions to Everest, he served as Chief High Altitude Physician for NASA-sponsored research on human physiological responses to extreme altitude. Dr. Kamler himself has climbed to within 900' of the summit and was the only doctor, high on the mountain, during the infamous 1996 storm that claimed twelve lives. His treatment of the survivors was portrayed in the best selling book, Into Thin Air, and in the IMAX film, Everest.
It is important to stick to well established safety rules and plans and not let one's emotions to succeed overrule these.